When thinking of an escape to the south of France, Languedoc- Roussillon doesn’t always spring to mind up against the big hitters of the Riviera. But in actual fact it offers visitors plenty to see and do and is surprisingly good value for money. With this in mind we decided to opt for a short break in Béziers, a small city in the Hérault department midway between Montpellier and Perpignan and just inland from the Mediterranean. It’s often overlooked by its larger neighbours but without reason as it is a worthy destination in its own right. With the Spanish border only an hour away by car on the auto-route, the influences this has on the area are clear from the outset. The Féria de Béziers bullfight, based on the Spanish corrida, takes place in August every year and attracts a million visitors over the 5-day event.
During the rest of the year, Béziers is relatively quiet and ideal if you want to avoid hordes of tourists. And, with an average of 300 days of sunshine per year, Languedoc-Roussillon is perfect for year-round short breaks.
After a leisurely breakfast of home made rolls, eggs, mulled fruits and endless cups of fresh cafe, our hosts Mark and Ben gave us more information on what the city had to offer. Béziers is steeped in history and our first port of call was the fortified Cathédrale St- Nazaire situated on a hill overlooking the city with dramatic views out to the sprawling vineyards and the River Orb below.
The beautiful Romanesque-style cathedral, which dates back to the thirteenth and fifteenth centuries, witnessed terrible bloodshed during the crusades that took place in 1209 and led to the massacre of 20,000 inhabitants, many of whom had been taking refuge in the cathedral. It’s hard to imagine that such carnage took place as the streets of the medieval part of the city are so peaceful. We meandered back to the city centre discovering the façades of private mansions with their hidden courtyards and sumptuous spiral stairways along the way.
After a spot of dégustation at the wine festival we headed to the market hall to sample some of the regional food specialities. Strolling round taking in the sights and smells really worked up an appetite. You can also dine in the market so thankfully our growling bellies didn’t have to wait too long. The informal setting of La Gargote des Halles might fool some into thinking it’s only simple fare but the meal, a seafood platter with a rich aioli followed by a cassoulet, was delicious and proved to be anything but basic. It truly was the perfect way to round off our short break.
DISCOVER...the local icons
As Béziers is the wine capital of Languedoc, it would be wrong to visit without an obligatory dégustation. Every October, the grape harvest festival takes place to celebrate the new vintages, which luckily happened to be in full swing when we arrived. A party atmosphere prevailed down the tree-lined Allées Paul Riquet with stall after stall offering red, rosé and white varieties that we were more than happy to sample. Another must-see when visiting the region is the UNESCO World Heritage Canal du Midi, which links the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. The picturesque canal was built by Paul Riquet in 1666 and marked a period of prosperity for the region. Today a statue of him takes pride of place on the street which bears his name.
STAY
Béziers is a good-sized city for exploring on foot and we stayed at the newly opened Maison De L'Orb situated in the Arab quarter by the old bridge and views of the river. We were even picked up at the airport free of charge. The place is quirky, modern, french chic and steeped in history having been used as a safe house during the Nazi occupation. The food is excellent, the welcome pack a must and excellent toiletries supplied. Dinner can be arranged at an extra.
With room rates starting from €75 including breakfast and for two people it offers excellent value for money.
www.maisondelorb.com
www.maisondelorb.blogspot.com
20 Rue L'Abreuvoir 34500 - Beziers - France
T: 00 33 (0) 467 486766
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